- Phil Schroeder
I arrived at Heathrow yesterday morning at 7:30 after a pleasant flight from Houston. I was somewhat bleary because I don't sleep well on planes, but I can't complain. Catching the Oxford Express at the airport I arrived at Headington, Oxford and made my way to my lodgings (a nice little B&B off of Windmill road). After getting settled in and exchanging a few emails with my eldest, Andrew, who is studying at Oxford this summer, I began my trek towards Christ Church college.
The weather was cool, about 70, and the skies were overcast. It was an enjoyable walk. It occurred to me that C.S. Lewis must have made this walk thousands of times, as the Kilns is less than a mile from where I'm staying.
Andrew and I met up near Christ Church cathedral and began our day. We made our way to the Kings Arms pub for lunch, where we both ordered bangers and mash, because what's better to start off a day of Oxford? It was delicious. We spent some time exploring the city and talking about its history as we walked. Oxford's city center is bustling with a great deal of pedestrian traffic, and the roads go every which-way and change names often, as roads in ancient cities are wont to do, so it took awhile for me to get my bearings. We walked down the Thames for a mile or two - I kept threatening Andrew that I was going to adopt my best rube American accent and ask a local where the "Thaymes" was" - and turned down a country lane that appeared to our right, passing by a soccer pitch and cutting through the meadows back to the city roads. During our walk we talked about Tolkien and Lewis and the works of literary genius those men produced. It's a wonderful feeling to be walking the same roads they did.
At 2:30 I bought a visitor's ticket into Christ Church proper - Andrew is a student there and has full run of the place - and we ventured into Christ Church cathedral and the Great Hall, where the students eat breakfast and dinner each day. I haven't seen the movies, but evidently Hogwarts is patterned after the Great Hall. Andrew gets to eat here five nights a week and, from a look at the menu and all his reports, the food is exquisite.
The cathedral was fascinating. There are memorial plaques and statues all over it honoring the departed and dating back centuries. There is also evidence of the Reformation-era expunging of any references to the saints, from blanked out faces on stained glass to the removal of saint's relics from the memorials.
Following our visit to Christ Church, we made another exploration through the streets of Oxford, ending up at St. Phillips book store where I purchased Lewis's The Discarded Image and Andrew bought a book by Hobbes, primarily because of who wrote the forward (the name escapes me). By this time I was starting to get a bit foggy, having been up for over 26 hours, not counting a few brief moments of dozing on the plane. So we grabbed a quick meal at Pret a Manger and then we popped over to the Bird and Baby to share a pint with Tollers and Jack. I read them some of my latest work. They both laughed heartily and pronounced it "pure rubbish".
Just kidding about that last part (but wouldn't that have been wonderful!). After dinner I caught City Bus #8 back to Headington, uploaded some photos, and crashed.
If interested, you can see pictures from Day 1 here: Oxford, Day 1. If you're not a Facebook user, try this link.
And now, off I go for another day in Oxford! Today Andrew and I will be visiting the Kilns, taking an Inklings walk, and perhaps visiting a museum after that.
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Christ Church is one of the oldest colleges at Oxford (Oxford is made up of a number of colleges - Christ Church, Magdalen, Merton, etc). Christ Church is where Andrew is enrolled for his five week term. In addition, it has a cathedral (hence the name, I suppose)
ZZ,
For Cambridge and Oxford, at least, the University is a conglomeration of connected, but fairly autonomous colleges gathered in the same city. All the colleges teach the same subjects and operate under the same basic philosophy. Upon graduation, every student gets a degree that simply says Oxford or Cambridge, regardless of what college they attended.
I'm not sure why they do it that way, but I think it has something to do with the fact that they do everything they can to keep the atmosphere small. Students still do most of their work individually under the guidance of a professor whom they meet one-on-one, for instance.
It's different, but it makes enough sense, I suppose.
Oh yay! My alma mater. I love Oxford, though I'm now living in The Other Place (Cambridge).
Further to what Andrew said, the college exist for historical reasons too. Originally, students would be lodged in houses with their tutors. The colleges are an extension of this and analogous to monasteries in being thought of by their founders as communities devoted to knowledge. Actually, not all college offer all subjects. Some, like mine (Corpus Christi) are quite small (there were 64 students in my year) and don't cover all subjects, e.g. we had no modern linguists or biologists, only the organ scholar studied music, but we had a large contingent of classicists, which is one of Corpus' traditional strengths.
Each college has its own distinctive character. I loved the small size of mine which made it very friendly. It was possible to know by sight and mostly by name, all of the undergraduates. In some larger colleges (like Keble and Christ Church) you might not know everyone in your year. Still, even large college communities are pretty small compared to your year or hall group anywhere else. They give one a lovely sense of belonging in a large mass of people.

I am drooling with envy. It's not a pretty sight. I shall have to live vicariously through you. Keep the photos coming. And thanks for sharing this.